Lawn Care

Install your sod immediately and begin watering! Do not wait until the next day. Sod is perishable and must be installed immediately upon receipt and followed by a deep watering. Heat can build up within a roll and cause damage to turf. Most successful sod installations are installed right after delivery to the jobsite. After rolling, begin irrigation deeply, six inches down into the soil until it’s soggy to walk on.

First two weeks after installation

Proper watering is essential to establishment (rooting) of your new sod. It’s nearly impossible to over water new sod! As a general rule, keep sod and soil moist all throughout the day. As much as 2 to 6 sprinklings during the day (morning and afternoon) are required until sod begins to root. Avoid, if at all possible, watering into the evening hours (after 5:30 pm or 6:00 pm); this is one of the fastest ways to create a fungus problem. Adjust for location, sprinklers, and temperature. Stay off new sod until after the first mowing. Try cutting back frequency of irrigations just before the first mow to firm up the soil. First mow is approximately 14 days after installation except in winter which will require longer time before the first mow. Mowing high is least stressful to the new sod. Never mow off more than one-third of the grass blade.

Three to four weeks after installation

Re-adjust your watering clock or timer. Reduce frequency of waterings gradually after each mowing, while increasing minutes per watering. Deeper, less frequent soakings will help roots grow down deeper and establish more quickly into the soil.  Fertilize your new sod approximately four to six weeks after installation to ensure the continued establishment of the roots. Use either Master Nursery Green Lawn Food or Master Nursery Formula 49.

Troubleshooting Tips

Sod not rooting? – Most sod varieties will begin to root within 10 to 14 days. Check watering schedule and adjust to deeper, less frequent soaking. Excessive shade will slow down rooting. Bluish-Grey spots on lawn or footprints show after being walked on – Drought stressed spots in the lawn. Try increasing minutes per watering and check or adjust sprinkler coverage. Mushrooms? – Temporary nuisance, usually growing in compost mixed into the soil at preparation. As waterings get deeper and less often, mushrooms usually dry up and wither away. Edges turning brown and/or gaps between rolls? – Sod is shrinking or has pulled up at the corners. Due to lack of water! Increase minutes per watering and frequency to minimize gaps. Also, hand watering sod will help shrink gaps. Press down edges with foot after watering.

Spring Tips

Spring is a good time of year to consider renovating your lawn. Dethatching, aeration, and reseeding can add many years of life to your lawn.

Fertilization

• Apply a pre-emergent with weed control in early February. This will control almost all seed germination of weeds for ninety days.
• If you are reseeding the lawn, do not apply a pre-emergent as it will inhibit grass seed from germinating.
• Many pre-emergent products are combined with fertilizer. When used, this will serve as the first fertilizer application of the year for your lawn. By mid-April, the grass should be actively growing!
• Apply a fertilizer with a small percentage of nitrates in the nitrogen formula.
• Most winterized, or water-soluble fertilizers containing either ammoniacal or nitrate-type Nitrogen on their label are quick release and will produce more top growth (clippings) during mowing.
• Newer fertilizers that contain coated or slow-release Nitrogen will control its release over a more extended period.
• Any fertilizer used after this application should be a “balanced formulation” lawn fertilizer.
• The type of fertilizer one chooses should meet the needs of the specific turf.

Irrigation

• Check your sprinklers for proper coverage.
• Cleaning nozzles, flushing lines, adjusting heads, and replacing the clock batteries will all help “tune-up” your system.
• Try a less frequent, deeper soak to encourage deeper roots.
• Early morning watering helps prevent turf disease as the lawn dries out during the day.

Aeration
Aeration opens up the soil and stimulates root growth, especially when followed by balanced fertilization. Core aeration also relieves soil compaction in older lawns and high traffic areas. Multiple aerations (2 to 3 or more per year) can significantly benefit high use lawns and help ease compaction.

Note: Rising spring soil temperatures can generate other growth in your lawn as well.

• Look for grubs that have been overwintered in the soil. They can start to move into the root zone and feed until their life cycle moves onto the adult stage.
• At this point, wait until you see damage from the larvae again before you treat your lawn. This will often occur in late May-early June.

Mowing
Spring is also the right time to increase the mowing height over 3 inches.

Summer Tips

Note: Additional watering is necessary when temperatures exceed 90 degrees Fahrenheit or 32 degrees Celsius

Fertilization
Slow-release nitrogen fertilizers are the preferred choice during the summer season. These fertilizers release nutrients over an extended period and help to maintain a steady growth rate. They are usually non-burning and cause less stress to your summer turf.

These fertilizers do not produce “growth flushes” like the traditional fertilizers that contain quick release forms of Nitrogen.

Irrigation
Deep irrigations are recommended during the heat of the summer. Remember, the deeper the soak, the deeper the roots. For best results, irrigate between midnight and 5 am.

Mowing

• Keep mower blades well sharpened for the best cut and best-looking turf.
• Mowing height in the summer should be raised to reduce added stress to the turf. With a deep root system, your drought tolerance will increase.

Fall Tips

Fertilization
Use a product designed specifically for the Fall season (winterizing fertilizer). Consult your local nursery for recommendations.

Irrigation
Reset your irrigation clock according to the weather in your area. Decreasing your watering schedule is necessary as the temperatures cool and the rain begins to fall

Dethatching & Aeration
Thatch is an accumulation of grassroots, leaves, and other debris that form just below the surface of the sod. If your lawn has about ½ inch or more of a thatch layer, sunlight and water will be blocked from providing nutrients.

Aeration opens up the soil and stimulates root growth, especially when followed by balanced fertilization. Core aeration also relieves soil compaction in older lawns and high traffic areas. Multiple aerations (2 to 3 or more per year) can significantly benefit high use lawns and help ease compaction.

Overseeding
It is highly recommended to overseed with a variety that matches your existing lawn to maintain a lush and healthy appearance.

Additional Seasonal Tips
Be sure to rake any leaves and debris that are covering your lawn regularly. The additional debris may cause mould and disease if left unmaintained.

Winter Tips

Note: The winter season does not require much maintenance.

Fertilization
Consult your local nursery for a winterizing fertilizer. Your fall application of fertilizer should maintain your lawn through the winter months.

Irrigation
Adjust your irrigation according to weather conditions; you can turn off your irrigation when the rainy season begins.

Installation
For new installations in the winter, roots will take approximately 14 days to establish due to the colder weather.

Mowing
Adjust your mowing height to approximately 3 inches; this will maximize blade exposure to any available sunlight.