Lawn Care

First Two Weeks

Please stay off new sod until after the first mowing. Proper watering of sod is essential for root establishment. On the actual day of installation, enough water needs to be applied to penetrate the sod and two inches of native soil underneath.

From day two on, keep your sod and soil moist throughout the day. The roots are short, and therefore the sod cannot withstand large amounts of water at a single time. Other than the first day, the ground under the sod should never be soggy. Watering four to six times during the day, for approximately five to six minutes each time, is required until the roots have been established. Root establishment will usually begin within seven to fourteen days, depending on the time of year your sod is laid and your environment.

Too much water will rob the roots of oxygen and in warmer weather that can lead to the potential for disease. The length of each watering cycle will depend on your soil type and the output of your irrigation system. A clay type soil may need five minutes, four times a day, compared to a sandy loam that may need seven minutes, five times a day. You will have to judge the minutes, but here is a general rule of thumb: if the water is standing under the sod for more than just a few minutes after irrigation finished or if the soil is soggy, you are probably giving the sod too much water at one time.

Avoid, if at all possible, watering into the evening hours (after 5:30 pm or 6:00 pm); this is one of the fastest ways to create a fungus problem. Start reducing the frequency of watering cycles just before the first mowing. This will help firm up the soil for a healthy mowing cycle.

The first mowing should be approximately 14 days after the sod has been installed. In the winter, you may need to wait longer for the roots to establish before mowing.

Never mow off more than 1/3 of the blade during a mowing cycle. This results in less stress for the plant.

After Two to Three Weeks

Reduce the frequency of times you water at a gradual pace. You can validate the establishment of the roots by pulling up a corner of the sod. If you feel some resistance, you can eliminate the last irrigation set of the day. However, you need to add a couple of minutes to the other irrigation sets.

Now the roots should be deep and can tolerate a few more minutes of water per cycle. In another week or so, you can repeat this process until you are only watering once a day. Deeper, less frequent watering will help roots stretch down deeper and establish quickly into the soil.

Fertilize your new sod approximately four to six weeks after installation to ensure the continued establishment of the roots.

Spring Tips

Spring is a good time of year to consider renovating your lawn. Dethatching, aeration, and reseeding can add many years of life to your lawn.

Fertilization

Apply a pre-emergent with weed control in early February. This will control almost all seed germination of weeds for ninety days.
If you are reseeding the lawn, do not apply a pre-emergent as it will inhibit grass seed from germinating.
Many pre-emergent products are combined with fertilizer. When used, this will serve as the first fertilizer application of the year for your lawn. By mid-April, the grass should be actively growing!
Apply a fertilizer with a small percentage of nitrates in the nitrogen formula.
Most winterized, or water-soluble fertilizers containing either ammoniacal or nitrate-type Nitrogen on their label are quick release and will produce more top growth (clippings) during mowing.
Newer fertilizers that contain coated or slow-release Nitrogen will control its release over a more extended period.
Any fertilizer used after this application should be a “balanced formulation” lawn fertilizer.
The type of fertilizer one chooses should meet the needs of the specific turf.

Irrigation

Check your sprinklers for proper coverage.
Cleaning nozzles, flushing lines, adjusting heads, and replacing the clock batteries will all help “tune-up” your system.
Try a less frequent, deeper soak to encourage deeper roots.
Early morning watering helps prevent turf disease as the lawn dries out during the day.

Aeration
Aeration opens up the soil and stimulates root growth, especially when followed by balanced fertilization. Core aeration also relieves soil compaction in older lawns and high traffic areas. Multiple aerations (2 to 3 or more per year) can significantly benefit high use lawns and help ease compaction.

Note: Rising spring soil temperatures can generate other growth in your lawn as well.

Look for grubs that have been overwintered in the soil. They can start to move into the root zone and feed until their life cycle moves onto the adult stage.
At this point, wait until you see damage from the larvae again before you treat your lawn. This will often occur in late May-early June.

Mowing
Spring is also the right time to increase the mowing height over 3 inches.

Summer Tips

Note: Additional watering is necessary when temperatures exceed 90 degrees Fahrenheit or 32 degrees Celsius

Fertilization
Slow-release nitrogen fertilizers are the preferred choice during the summer season. These fertilizers release nutrients over an extended period and help to maintain a steady growth rate. They are usually non-burning and cause less stress to your summer turf.

These fertilizers do not produce “growth flushes” like the traditional fertilizers that contain quick release forms of Nitrogen.

Irrigation
Deep irrigations are recommended during the heat of the summer. Remember, the deeper the soak, the deeper the roots. For best results, irrigate between midnight and 5 am.

Mowing

Keep mower blades well sharpened for the best cut and best-looking turf.
Mowing height in the summer should be raised to reduce added stress to the turf. With a deep root system, your drought tolerance will increase.

Fall Tips

Fertilization
Use a product designed specifically for the Fall season (winterizing fertilizer). Consult your local nursery for recommendations.

Irrigation
Reset your irrigation clock according to the weather in your area. Decreasing your watering schedule is necessary as the temperatures cool and the rain begins to fall

Dethatching & Aeration
Thatch is an accumulation of grassroots, leaves, and other debris that form just below the surface of the sod. If your lawn has about ½ inch or more of a thatch layer, sunlight and water will be blocked from providing nutrients.

Aeration opens up the soil and stimulates root growth, especially when followed by balanced fertilization. Core aeration also relieves soil compaction in older lawns and high traffic areas. Multiple aerations (2 to 3 or more per year) can significantly benefit high use lawns and help ease compaction.

Overseeding
It is highly recommended to overseed with a variety that matches your existing lawn to maintain a lush and healthy appearance.

Additional Seasonal Tips
Be sure to rake any leaves and debris that are covering your lawn regularly. The additional debris may cause mould and disease if left unmaintained.

Winter Tips

Note: The winter season does not require much maintenance.

Fertilization
Consult your local nursery for a winterizing fertilizer. Your fall application of fertilizer should maintain your lawn through the winter months.

Irrigation
Adjust your irrigation according to weather conditions; you can turn off your irrigation when the rainy season begins.

Installation
For new installations in the winter, roots will take approximately 14 days to establish due to the colder weather.

Mowing
Adjust your mowing height to approximately 3 inches; this will maximize blade exposure to any available sunlight.